Horology is the study of time. The only thing that we really know about time is that it’s cyclical. For as long as the universe has been in motion, time has moved forward. Despite humanity’s best efforts to explain time, the closest we’ve gotten to understanding time is that we’ve learned how to measure it.
For some, a watch is just a way to tell time and keep from running late. For others, a watch is a fashion statement. However, there is a group of people who truly appreciate the mechanics and fine-tuned precision that it takes to create a watch.
If you’re part of that group, then a mechanical watch is just what you need! In today’s article, we will show you the 12 best affordable mechanical watches for men including pilot watches, diving watches, dress watches, and some everyday types of watches for men.
Table of Contents
A Brief History Of Mechanical Watches
In the early-1500s, a young clockmaker named Peter Henlein from Nuremberg, Germany, invented the world’s first “watch.” It was a round ball that contained a complex mechanical mechanism made up of wheels, springs, and sprockets.
Over a few hundred years, this developed into the pocket watch that we all remember from old-fashioned westerns. This worked out fine until airplanes were invented. Pilots needed a way to tell and measure time while they were in the cockpit, and pulling out a large watch and chain mid-flight was a challenge.
To address the problem, famous Brazillian adventurer and pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont partnered with a man named Louis Cartier (whose family had been making pocket watches in Paris since the 1800s). After a bit of trial and effort, the first mechanical wristwatch was born!
Although the technology and style have changed a bit, the watch still retains its timeless look and functionality, despite the advent of modern smartphones and smartwatches.
The only real change that’s happened is that battery-powered quartz watches have become more popular and are cheaper since they don’t require the complicated mechanics that a mechanical watch does. Their only drawback is that their batteries need to be replaced from time to time.
There are two types of mechanical watches to choose from:
- Automatic watches (self-winding time spring)
- Manual watches (you need to hand-wind the time spring to reset the power)
Automatic mechanical watches are, by far, the most popular type, and most of the watches below feature automatic movement. This means that your hand and wrist’s natural motions and movement f your hand and wrist are enough to trigger the main spring to rewind itself and continue powering the gears and sprockets powering the watch arms.
Affordable Mechanical Watches | Our Top Picks
Some of the nicest mechanical watches in the world are made by the companies that we’ve all heard of. Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Richard Millie, and Patek Philippe are just a few of the brands that regularly retail their fine mechanical watches for well over $100,000 a piece.
However, you don’t have to be a famous musician, billion-dollar landlord, cartel leader, or own the next ‘Google’ to enjoy having a mechanical watch. While mechanical watches are certainly more expensive than your average run-of-the-mill battery-powered quartz watch, there are many great options available that cost less than $500!
Below, you’ll find some of our favorites.
These watches are crafted by reputable watchmakers and are known for their durability, longevity, and precision time-telling abilities. So, without further ado, let’s take a look.
1. Bulova Automatic - 96A187
Bulova has been making high-quality clocks and wristwatches since 1875, right in the heart of New York City. Their quality easily rivals the likes of Rolex, but you can get a Bulova automatic watch for a fraction of the price!
This watch features a polished stainless steel casing and quartz face that’s water-resistant up to 100 meters, classifying it as a light diving watch. It has a stylish, low-key appearance with its medium-sized 43-millimeter face.
Once you take a look at the watch’s face, however, this watch is anything but humble. The skeleton-style central watch face allows you to see the inner workings of the mechanical watch. The snow-white watch face and electric-blue numbering encircling the face draw immediate attention and make for an incredibly classy and functioning timekeeping device.
- Movement : Automatic, Hand-wind and Self-winding, 21 Jewels
- Power Reserve : 42 hours
- Case Diameter : 43 mm
- Case Thickness : 12 mm
- Dial Window : Mineral Crystal
- Band Material : Stainless steel
- Band Width : 22 mm
- Water Resistance : 100M
2. Hamilton Khaki King Automatic
Pennsylvania based watchmaker Hamilton has been producing timepieces since 1892, so it’s safe to say that they know what they’re doing when it comes to mechanical watches.
Their Khaki King automatic watch is a throwback to the days when leather-banded watches were all the rage. Made with high-quality, stain-proof, chocolate leather, this watch is incredibly lightweight and is a great option for an active day at work or to top off that business casual look.
The watch face is small and unassuming at just 40 millimeters. Its black background gives the watch a subtle look that doesn’t draw unnecessary attention. If you take a look at the back of the watch casing, however, you’ll be able to see all of the high-quality craftsmanship and intricate ticking of the clock.
- Movement : Swiss Automatic, Self-winding, ETA
- Power Reserve : 80 hours
- Case Diameter : 40 mm
- Case Thickness : 11 mm
- Dial Window : Anti-reflective Sapphire Crystal
- Band Material : Leather
- Band Width : 20 mm
- Water Resistance : 50M
3. Laco Augsburg Automatic Pilot Watch
Laco rose to fame in the early 1940s when their handcrafted pilot watches were some of the most coveted in the world. They utilized Swiss engineering placed inside a high-quality German stainless casing to keep it safe and secure.
The Augsburg Type A German Automatic Pilot Watch is a tribute to the past. It was crafted to be a near-exact replica of the original pilot watches worn by World War II aviators. The only difference is that now, the watch is automatic and self-winding, whereas they needed to be manually wound in the past.
At first glance, it looks a lot like the Hamilton Khaki King that we just look at. It features a strong, genuine leather band, a brushed stainless casing, and a black watch face. The Arabic numbers and minute markings are enlarged and highlighted in a clear white tone that makes them very easy to see.
- Movement : Miyota 821-A Automatic, 21 Jewels
- Power Reserve : 42 hours
- Case Diameter : 42 mm
- Case Thickness : 12 mm
- Dial Window : Sapphire Crystal
- Band Material : Leather
- Band Width : 20 mm
- Water Resistance : 50M
4. Orient Men's 2nd Gen. Bambino Ver. 2
The Orient 2nd Generation Version 2 is a beautifully crafted Japanese automatic watch. It features a classic design that’s reminiscent of the old pilot watches. However, its bright white watch face, crystal face, blue watch arms, and sliver-lined Roman numerals bespeak a level of high-end craftsmanship that can only be found in Japanese watchmaking.
The watch features an extra-smooth alligator leather band that provides superior durability and adds a flair of style. Although it’s not exactly a diving watch, it is water-resistant up to 30 meters deep, so you don’t have to worry about it getting wet in the rain or while you’re on the boat.
- Movement : Automatic, Hand-winding
- Power Reserve : 40 hours
- Case Diameter : 40.5 mm
- Case Thickness : 12 mm
- Dial Window : Mineral Crystal
- Band Material : Leather
- Band Width : 21 mm
- Water Resistance : 30M
5. Seiko Presage Cocktail Time - SRPB41
Seiko is one of Japan’s oldest watchmakers and dates back to 1881 when its founder was just a young man repairing and selling handmade watches. Today, Seiko honors its rich legacy with its Presage automatic watch.
Both the casing and the wristband are made from 12-millimeter-thick stainless steel. This gives the watch a strong, heavy feel that gives off a powerful, in-control vibe. It has a sapphire-blue face with the illumination of a star behind it. The beveled numeral markings into the crystal give the Presage an elegant finish that can’t be ignored.
- Movement : Automatic, Manual winding, 4R35 Movement, 23 Jewels
- Power Reserve : 41 hours
- Case Diameter : 41 mm
- Case Thickness : 12.7 mm
- Dial Window : Hardlex
- Band Material : Stainless Steel
- Band Width : 20 mm
- Water Resistance : 50M
6. BUREI Men's Automatic Watch
Burei’s automatic mechanical watch features an elegant design that’s not unlike the old Rolexes that were popular in the 70s and 80s. The casing and band are made from ultra-polished stainless steel with a shiny appearance guaranteed to turn heads everywhere you go.
There are 11 different color combinations that you can choose from, featuring silver, gold, and dual-color bands, as well as a variety of different watch face colors. Depending on the color combination you select, you could go for a rebellious, highly-stylish appearance or a classic look better suited to the office. The choice is yours!
- Movement : Japanese Miyota Automatic
- Power Reserve : N/A
- Case Diameter : 42 mm
- Case Thickness : 12 mm
- Dial Window : Anti-reflective Sapphire Crystal
- Band Material : Stainless Steel
- Band Width : 21 mm
- Water Resistance : 50M
7. Tissot T-Race Watch
If you’re looking for a Swiss watch that draws attention no matter where you go, then the Tissot T-Race Sport Watch is an excellent choice. Its large 48.8-millimeter face not only catches the eye of others, but it’s also very easy to read when you’re on the go. This was a watch made for bikers, runners, and athletes who need a functional, durable, and minimalistic watch.
It features a durable stainless-steel case that’s water-resistant up to 100 meters and can handle short swims. However, it shouldn’t be used as a diving or marine watch as the leather strap can easily become loose underwater.
- Movement : Swiss Automatic, 19 Jewels
- Power Reserve : 72 hours
- Case Diameter : 48.8 mm
- Case Thickness : 13.04 mm
- Dial Window : Scratch-resistant Sapphire Crystal
- Band Material : Rubber
- Band Width : 22 mm
- Water Resistance : 100M
8. BULOVA Wilton Automatic Watch (Model: 96A206)
The Bulova watch that we reviewed above was all-stainless and had a bold, strong appearance. Think of the 96A206 as its classy cousin. This watch has a finely polished stainless watch casing and a beveled white face that looks incredibly classy with a suit or other business attire.
The blue-dyed leather band makes a subtle yet powerful style statement, and the large watch arms and Roman numerals make it easy to tell time. This watch’s coolest feature is that it has 60 hours of reserve power, meaning you won’t have to hand-wind/reset it unless you go more than 3 days without wearing it.
- Movement : Miyota Automatic, Self-winding, 21 Jewels
- Power Reserve : 60 Hours
- Case Diameter : 42 mm
- Case Thickness : 12.7 mm
- Dial Window : Sapphire Crystal
- Band Material : Leather
- Band Width : 22 mm
- Water Resistance : 100M
9. Orient Ray II Automatic
Orient’s Japanese diving watch follows the classic style of the Rolex Submariner. It’s brightly polished case and the wristband is easy to see underwater should you ever drop it. The ultra-durable design is able to withstand constant use as deep as 200 meters underwater.
You’ll be able to choose between a dark blue or a black face. The dials and watch arms glow in the dark and emit plenty of light, so you keep track of your time even if you’re cave diving!
- Movement : Automatic, Hand-winding and Self-winding, 22 Jewels
- Power Reserve : 40 hours
- Case Diameter : 41.5 mm
- Case Thickness : 13 mm
- Dial Window : Mineral Crystals
- Band Material : Stainless Steel
- Band Width : 22 mm
- Water Resistance : 200M
10. Seiko 5 Watch (Model:SRPD53K1)
Seiko’s analogue diving watch is waterproof up to 200 meters under and features a simple, high-quality design. The arms are glow-in-the-dark and extra-wide to provide enhanced visibility when viewed in the dark. The face is a reflective sapphire-blue that’s reminiscent of the water surrounding Japan’s coastline.
One of this watch’s coolest features is its rotating bezel, which allows divers to mark their time in 15 or 60-minute intervals by aligning the bezel markings. Since divers are often working with limited oxygen time, it’s essential to stay on top of timing to avoid any accidents.
- Movement : Automatic
- Power Reserve : 41 hours
- Case Diameter : 43 mm
- Case Thickness : 13 mm
- Dial Window : Hardlex
- Band Material : Stainless steel
- Band Width : 22 mm
- Water Resistance : 100M
11. Stuhrling Skeleton Watch
If you’re the type of person who appreciates the art and mechanics that power their watch, then the Stuhrling Original skeleton watch is an excellent choice. It features a large, durable, 47-millimeter stainless steel case with a crystal-clear, dome-shaped face that helps to lightly magnify all of the spinning cogs and golden gears that power the device.
Aside from its striking looks, the watch also has a really dual-clock that allows you to set the time in another timezone for when you’re traveling and need to keep track of time back home!
- Movement : Automatic, self-winding, 22 Jewels
- Power Reserve : Approximately 36 hours
- Case Diameter : 47 mm
- Case Thickness : 13 mm
- Dial Window : Mineral Crystal
- Band Material : Leather
- Band Width : 24 mm
- Water Resistance : 50M
12. Citizen Promaster (Model: NY0040-17LE)
If you’re a regular diver who’s used to diving deep, then this analog diving watch by Citizen is a must-have. The icons are oversized and glow in the dark, making them easy to see in any condition. The plastic wristband is ultra-lightweight, and you’ll never have to worry about it falling off underwater or becoming loose.
On the side of the wristband, you’ll see a handy (and possibly life-saving) list reminding you of how much time you can spend at certain depths before you need to undergo decompression. Like most other diving watches, the Promaster also features a rotating bezel for better time management while you’re under.
- Movement : Miyota 8204 Automatic
- Power Reserve : Approximately 45 hours
- Case Diameter : 42 mm
- Case Thickness : 13 mm
- Dial Window : Mineral Crystal
- Band Material : Rubber
- Band Width : 20 mm
- Water Resistance : 200M
Important Terms:
Before we finish, here are a few key terms you should be aware of:
- Jewel-Count: Most mechanical watches utilize small jewels that fit into the joints and bearings of the cogs. They typically aren’t visible to the wearer, but they help to give the watch better longevity and put less strain on the gears.
- Power Reserve: Automatic mechanical watches are reset by the movements of your hand. However, if you go a day or two between wearing them, they will need to be manually reset. Some watches have a power reserve that allows them to go for several days in between wearing them.
